Misery and Elation on the Storms River Waterfall Trail

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The warning on the signboard at the beginning of the there and back Storms River Waterfall Trail stops us in our tracks – ‘the waterfall trail is rated as difficult and is not recommended for unfit hikers’.

Neither of us has the fitness levels needed to scale a mountain or run a marathon today or any other day. Instead, we are walking fit. We’ve comfortably hiked the 1014 steps to the Storms River Mouth Suspension Bridge, but are we fit enough to hike this trail?

After a moment or two of indecision, the allure of the seemingly gentle pathway leading into the coastal forest tempts us to explore a little way.  We’ll take it slow, listen to our bodies and try not to push our limits.

But, before I tell you about our misery and elation on the hike,

Where is the Storms River Waterfall Trail?

You’ll find the trail in the Storms River Rest Camp in the Tsitsikamma section of South Africa’s Garden Route National Park.

The hike is a 6.4 kilometre there, to the Jerling River Waterfall, and back walk through the pristine wilderness of delicate fynbos and lush coastal forests that run along this wild rocky shoreline.

We Meet the Storms River Waterfall Trail Guide.

The trail is a delight for the first kilometre.  It’s a flat, undulating path through the coastal forest a short distance from the ocean’s edge. Here the dense vegetation muffles the never-ending roar of pounding waves on the rocks to a soft background whisper.

A deep-toned rasping qua-quah-quah-quack sound breaks the quiet oceanic susurration, and a red-necked francolin lands on the trail before us, barring the path.

He inspects us with that odd enquiring head tilt of chickens everywhere, clucking quietly to himself as if settling some internal monologue.

Meanwhile, we wait patiently for him to move off the pathway.

With a final satisfied cluck, he turns and leads the way. We follow down a rutted track through an enchanting mosaic of indigenous white, yellow and purple wildflowers and meadows of ferns and peppery scented fynbos. It’s idyllic.

And we wonder why the Storms River Waterfall Trail is rated as difficult. So far, this has been a delightful walk in the park!

But Misery Awaits Us on the Storms River Waterfall Trail.

Our francolin guide abandons us when we enter a shady tunnel hacked through the dense coastal forest emerging on the edge of a small boulder-strewn cove. We pause. Is this the point where we should back out?

After careful deliberation, we decide traversing the boulders shouldn’t be too difficult if we take it slowly. And as a bonus, the rocks are dry, so if we’re careful, we won’t slip.

The pathway has disappeared. But on the other side of the cove, we spot two yellow paw-print markers painted on a large, fissured rock. This must be the route to follow.

We pick our way across the cove and climb onto the rock. Carefully, we ease our bodies along the thin slivers of rock rising above the deep water-carved fissures. It’s a precarious balancing act.

And on the other side of the rock, an even more hazardous rockfall awaits us. Maybe this is the time to bail out of the Storms River Waterfall Hike?

A Beacon of Hope.

But hope springs eternal. A wooden staircase glistens in the sunlight on the other side of the rockfall. A beacon of hope that will lead us out of this rocky misery and back to another gentle meandering path along this beautiful, rugged stretch of the Tsitsikamma coastline.

So, we continue.

We teeter on wobbly rocks.

Pull our bodies up and over small car-sized boulders and ease down the other side.

And squeeze along narrow ledges.

And in a couple of places, I end up crawling on my hands and knees to get across the rockfall.

A Moment or Two of Elation

Despite feeling slightly winded, reaching the top of the staircase is a moment of pure elation—a combination of we-did-it exhilaration and reverent awe at Mother Nature’s handiwork. A spectacular panorama of lush, carpeted hills and orange lichen-encrusted rocks pounded by a turbulent ocean dressed in all the imaginable shades of blue.

And then, our eyes are drawn to the rockfall below us. Did we really just cross that? And emerge with no notable scrapes or bruises?

Elation Comes and Goes on the Storms River Waterfall Trail

With the misery of the rockfall behind us.  And buoyed by our elation, we continue along the trail. But this is not the hoped-for pastoral meandering path from before. Instead, a narrow dirt track clings to the side of the hill.

We ease around tree trunks and over ankle-breaking roots and rocks. Clamber through yet another rockfall. And another. Fortunately, none of them is as tough on our bodies as the first rockfall.

We’ve only been on the trail for about two hours, but it feels like forever. Each time I want to admit defeat and suggest we give up, there’s a break in the vegetation, revealing yet another dramatic rocky ocean vista.

And the promise of more of this magnificent wild beauty lures me onwards.

There are More Rocks.

Until we encounter what looks like another rockfall, that’s it. I am done! No more rocks!

Nevertheless, we scramble up the first rock to find ourselves on a flattish rocky plateau beneath a high cliff. We’ll stop for a rest and a snack here before heading back. And then, tucked into a corner of the lichen-encrusted cliff face, we spot a thin ribbon of water cascading down.  

We made it!

Finally, the Jerling River Waterfall.

Cautiously we pick our way across the mercifully flat rocks. With each step, the waterfall reveals more and more of its tiered cascading splendour.

And at its base, a deep pool of water invites us to jump in and cool off. A quick dip of a single toe, and we decline. The water is bitterly cold.

Instead, we while away an hour in blissful solitude, the only humans in this magnificent landscape. Lulled by the sound of endless waves and the soft fall of cascading water, our elation subsides into a state of utter contentment.

And all too soon, it’s time to head back. But this time, it’s a lot easier.

Is the Storms River Waterfall Trail Worth Doing?

Hell yes! The rugged and pristine beauty of the Tsitsikamma coastline is spellbinding.  

Despite the misery of rockfalls and ankle-breaking roots lying in wait for the unwary, our curses never lasted long and were quickly reduced to speechless elation.

Were we fit enough? Our middle-aged bodies took strain. On the first rockfall, we discovered that walking fitness isn’t enough. You need good balance, strong knees and decent upper body strength to hike the Storms River Waterfall Trail.

So, we took it slow, rested often, listened to our bodies and didn’t push our limits.

Although I must confess, when I awoke the following morning, my body voiced a strong protest, and I ached in places I didn’t even know I had.

Storms River Waterfall Trail – Know Before You Go

Our First Mistake

Not Driving to the Waterfall trail parking lot.

The Storms River Mouth Rest Camp is a long narrow strip stretching over three kilometres of rugged coastline with the Suspension Bridge hike on one side and the Waterfall Trail on the other side.

We set off on foot from our forest cabin slap bang in the middle of the camp, adding another three kilometres to the hike. This wasn’t so bad on the way to the Jerling River waterfall, but the extra distance on the way back nearly wiped us out.

And, if you’d like to know more about the rest camp, why not click this link to read our 5 reasons to escape to Storms River Mouth Rest Camp?

Our Second Mistake

Not paying enough attention to the tides.

The tide had turned and was on its way in when we returned. Another half an hour, and we would have had to negotiate dangerously wet and slippery rocks and boulders.

Although, we did notice an escape route up a steep hill. I don’t think we would have managed such a big up at this stage of our hike – we were running dangerously low on energy.

Allow Plenty of Time.

According to the sign at the beginning of the trail, it should take about 3.5 hours to complete the Storms River Waterfall Trail.

If you are a mountain goat, of course, you’ll do it in this time. However, if your fitness levels are at run-of-the-mill walking fitness like ours, allow yourself lots of time.

If the tide allows, I suggest heading out early in the day. That way, you won’t be pushed for time.

Nature’s Rugged Beauty Isn’t Free!

There is no charge to hike the Storms River Waterfall Trail. However, a daily conservation fee is payable at the park gates. Until the end of October 2023, the daily rate is:

• R74.00 for South African Citizens and Residents
• R 148.00 for SADC Nationals
• R296.00 for International Visitors.

But if you have a Wildcard, you don’t have to pay conservation fees.

The park gates open at 8 am and close at 5 pm for day visitors.

And Don’t Forget …

Wear good sturdy hiking shoes.

And plenty of sunscreen even when it’s overcast, the sun here bites.

This hike is thirsty work, so take a full water bottle and a couple of snacks.

And if you are brave enough to take the plunge into the icy mountain waters at the waterfall’s base, take along a swimming costume.

But most importantly, take it slow. Listen to your body, and don’t push your limits.

DISCLOSURE: I have no commercial relationship with Sanparks or their affiliates. All photographs, experiences and opinions expressed in this blog post are my own.

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