Loffiesdraai Bush Camp, in the heart of the Kalahari

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‘Jen! Jen, wake up! There’s a lion at the waterhole.’ Bleary-eyed, I peer at my glowing watch face. It’s three a.m. at Loffiesdraai Bush Camp, deep in the heart of the Kalahari.

The figure standing next to my bed repeats the bit about the lion and walks away with a sigh. Her words penetrate my brain. I fly out of bed. My bare feet touch the cold floor and sensibly message my sleep-addled brain one word: Scorpions! I pause to shove my feet into my boots and dash to the enclosed patio overlooking the waterhole.

Outside, a million stars flicker in the predawn darkness of the African night.

And there he is! Illuminated by a single spotlight, a magnificent black-maned Kalahari lion quenches his hunter’s thirst at the waterhole. It is so quiet I can hear him lapping up the water.

He finishes his drink and has a leisurely stretch that ripples through his powerful body. Satisfied, he surveys his kingdom as if deciding where to go. He stretches again and sets off, in our direction!

This mighty king of the Kalahari exudes an undeniable confidence as he ambles across the red sands towards us. Despite knowing we are safe behind a sturdy steel rebar fence-like construction that I doubt even the grumpy elephant landlord of Marakele could knock over, I am a little nervous.

 He pauses about ten meters away and looks us over.

His amber eyes lock with mine briefly. It is a startling, primal gaze that roots me to the floor. But it isn’t only fear that immobilises me. I’m overcome by a profound sense of wonder bordering on reverence and deep gratitude to be here in this moment on a once-in-a-lifetime adventure.

But first,

Where is Loffiesdraai Bush Camp?

Loffiesdraai was established as a research camp for zoologist Professor Fritz’ Loffies’ Eloff to study the lions of the Kalahari. Now, it’s available only nine times a year as an exclusive bush camp for eight fortunate guests. The camp is run by the SANParks Honorary Rangers (SHR) as a hosted and guided six-day, five-night experience.

To get an idea of where this special place is, open a map of the northwestern part of South Africa. Now find the Kalagadi Transfrontier Park. Next, locate the point where Namibia, Botswana, and South Africa converge. This is Union’s End, an old historic border post no longer in use. The camp is situated approximately 50 kilometres south-southeast of this unique landmark.

The allure of this remote, off-the-grid experience in the vast Kalahari Desert has always piqued my sense of adventure. However, with only nine camps available per year, it’s challenging to secure a booking. So, when an opportunity to join an SHR maintenance team putting in the finishing touches to new ensuite bathrooms arose, I jumped at this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.

Loffiesdraai Bush Camp May Not Be Everyone’s Cup of Tea

The king of the Kalahari ambles off into the distance, and I snuggle back in my sleep-warmed bed. Occasionally, he roars, no doubt calling to his lady friends. Or maybe he is just bragging about a night well spent.

Sleep eludes me. I lie there, listening to his roars, which become fainter and fainter as the early morning light seeps through the cracks in the canvas walls of the sleeping enclosure.

What? Did you say enclosure? Yes, I did. Guests sleep in a large dormitory that is, essentially, a massive cage with drop-down canvas flaps, designed to shield us from the chilly winter air while still inviting the wild atmosphere inside.

This unconventional sleeping arrangement may not be everyone’s cup of tea. But for me, it adds to the unfiltered charm of the Loffiesdraai experience. Despite the canvas walls, I feel immersed in the Kalahari. It is as if I am sleeping in the open in absolute safety, without the fear of something nibbling at my toes.

At night, I leave a small opening in the canvas beside my bed to watch the floodlit waterhole. I drift in and out of sleep, often waking to see a herd of striking springbok or ghostly gemsbok congregating around the waterhole. Sometimes, I’m fortunate enough to witness a stealthy jackal or a thirsty hyena stopping by for a late-night drink.

Embracing the wild in this way heightens my awareness of the natural world. I feel alive in a way I have seldom experienced.

Morning Coffee With a Side Order of Hyena

Waking early has become my ritual here, driven by a deep desire not to miss a single moment at Loffiesdraai. Each morning, I savour a warm cup of coffee at the outdoor fire pit, where the embrace of the hot drink and the sun’s gentle rays work to chase away the chill of mid-winter.

Most mornings, I find myself alone in this tranquil space, apart from our hosts, busy in the nearby kitchen. This solitude has an element of excitement. The fire pit is less than four metres away from the safety of the Loffiesdraai enclosure. I remind myself to stay alert. Anything could wander up to give me a sniff. Or worse, take a small bite to see how tasty I might be.

The tranquillity of my surroundings touches me deeply. The birds chirp softly near the waterhole, while insects join in a lovely symphony. A gentle breeze dances through my hair, almost as if it’s welcoming me into this untouched paradise where Mother Nature truly shines.

Wrapped in the warmth of the sun and the comforting aroma of my favourite coffee, I try to capture my thoughts about the Kalahari in my notebook. However, my words seem inadequate to convey the grandeur of this ancient world, which has thrived long before I arrived, a mere visitor in this stunning landscape.

On the second morning, I find myself still wrestling with my early morning reflections on this vast natural tapestry when a sudden movement catches my eye on the other side of the sleeping enclosure. It’s a hyena!

In that instant, all rational thought vanishes, and I instinctively retreat, very slowly, back into the safety of the enclosure, heart racing with awe at the wonders of this wild world.

Building for a Better Loffiesdraai Bush Camp Stay

At Loffiesdraai Bush Camp, guests spend their days immersed in thrilling adventures in the Kalahari, guided by seasoned experts who unveil the secrets of this remarkable landscape. However, I’m not a guest; I’m there to work.

I’ve joined one of six SHR teams, working under the supervision of a local contractor to complete the en-suite bathrooms for the camp’s sleeping enclosure. These bathrooms will feature exquisite yet safe outdoor showers that blend seamlessly with the surrounding wilderness.

In the past, the ablution facilities were outside the sleeping quarters. This meant that those late-night trips to the bathroom necessitated gently rousing a dorm mate to accompany you in the dark. A somewhat awkward ritual for me, especially since I only met my SHR team when I arrived at Loffiesdraai. 

Yet, there’s a wonderful silver lining to this setup! Each excursion becomes an exciting adventure in its own right. As I step out of the enclosure and into the night, I feel completely enveloped by the magic of the starlit canvas above. The air dances with the sounds of nocturnal creatures. Each rustle and call contributes to the enchanting symphony of the night, enhancing the beauty of that mesmerising, twinkling sky.

When I can drag myself away from watching the waterhole, I spend my days at Loffiesdraai, painting walls and learning how to grout shower tiles, all while ensuring I don’t disrupt the work of the other SHR volunteers. Unlike me, they brought a vast array of skills to the project. I will never forget their kindness towards this novice grouter and the amazing camaraderie that developed among this group of people who were once strangers.

And if you’re ever lucky enough to enjoy a shower here, I’d appreciate it if you could be gentle with your feedback on my “new” grouting skills.

Whispers of the Kalahari: A Symphony at Sunset

When I thought of the Kalahari, I imagined rolling red dunes, with the occasional tussock of grass, some succulent plants, and stunted trees. Instead, as I settle beneath the shade of a magnificent camelthorn tree, overlooking the Loffiesdraai waterhole for my daily Kalahari sunset ritual, I discover a vibrant world filled with the colours and sounds of Africa.

A Namaqua sandgrouse lands at the waterhole, followed by another, and then another. Soon, a flock gathers to drink and absorb moisture into their chest feathers, which they will carry to their chicks many miles away. Their trills fill the late Kalahari afternoon with a melodic promise.

The setting sun casts golden hues across a landscape alive with shimmering winter grass and resilient green thorn trees that reach towards the infinite sky. Their long shadows are a testament to the dwindling daytime beauty that fades as the African night approaches.

Beyond the dunes, a black-backed jackal starts to howl. Another responds, and then yet another, until it seems as though Loffiesdraai is enveloped by a haunting chorus of jackals heralding the arrival of night.

In these precious moments in the Kalahari, I’m reminded that beauty can bloom in the most unexpected places. I take a deep breath, remain present, filled with gratitude and wonder for the amazing surroundings and the resilient creatures that call this remote South African wilderness home.

They say that once the red Kalahari sand slips into your shoes, it calls you back time and again. I’m already dreaming about my return, but this time, as a guest.

If you’d like to learn more about this unique Kalagadi experience at Loffiesdraai Bush Camp and how to make a reservation, click the link!

Disclosure:

I do not have any commercial relationship with SANParks or any of its affiliates. While I am a volunteer member of the SANParks Honorary Rangers, the views and opinions expressed in this blog post are entirely my own and do not reflect the organisation’s position. I have not received any financial compensation for this post. This blog aims to share my personal experiences and insights related to my time in nature. All photographs, experiences, and opinions are my own.